How to Make Colored Clay For Pottery : A Step-by-Step Guide

Are you interested in making your own colored clay to create unique swirls and patterns but worry the process might be too messy or time-consuming?

Have you ever wanted to add a splash of color to your pottery without just reaching for a glaze brush? Making your own colored clay is a total game-changer! It allows you to create beautiful patterns like Nerikomi (patterning) or Agateware (marbling) where the color goes all the way through the piece.

The process is simple, fun, and a great way to make your work stand out. Here is everything you need to know to get started.

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Materials You’ll Need

Before diving into making colored clay, it’s important to have all the supplies you need and set up your working area properly.

• Dust Mask Respirator: When working with Stains and Oxides in powdered form, ALWAYS wear a Dust Mask. This is because the powders contain chemicals you should not breathe in.
• Mister Spray Bottle: A spray bottle is an important part of making colored clay. It’s best to use a Mister Spray Bottle. It controls the amount of water you are adding to the colorant and clay body better.
• Digital Scale: Accuracy helps you recreate the same color later.
• Colorant: Mason stains are the easiest for beginners because they are stable and consistent. You can also use metal oxides for a more natural, earthy look. Oxides, on the other hand, are challenging to manage in terms of color stability and are used more in Making Glazes. Therefore, I will be using Blue Mason Stain
• White Clay: These show colors most vividly. I mainly med fire to cone 5 and 6, so I use Amaco #38 Stoneware White Clay. I also use Amaco #11 A-Mix Stoneware Clay. If you are firing at a low-temperatures to cone 06 and 04, Amaco Low Fire, # 25 White Clay Multi-Purpose is a good Clay to use.

Calculate Your Ratios

Don’t eyeball it! Accuracy is the secret to being able to recreate a color you love.

• Light Tints: 0.5 oz of stain per 1 lb of clay (approx. 3% stain).
• Medium/Standard: 1 oz of stain per 1 lb of clay (approx. 6% stain).
• Dark/Saturated: 1.5 – 2 oz of stain per 1 lb of clay (approx. 10%+ stain).
• Note: Oxides are much stronger; usually, 1–5% is plenty.

Safety and Preparation

Before you open that jar of stain, put on your Dust Mask Respirator. These powders are very fine and contain heavy metals that you definitely don’t want to breathe in. Use a digital scale for your measurements and have a Mister Spray Bottle ready.

The Mixing Process (The “Clay Sandwich”)

Create a Well: Flatten your clay into a thick slab and use your thumb to push a little “well” or bowl into the center.

Add the Color: Pour your stain into the well.
Pro Tip: Give the powder a quick mist with a spray bottle. This stops the fine dust from floating into the air when you start mixing. Use Disposable Gloves: The stains can get under your fingernails, making it quite hard to get off, especially if you are using an oxide stain.

You can add the stain in three ways:

Dry: Sprinkle the powder directly into the well and mist it with water. Once all the stain is on the clay, spray some water on top of the stain to get it wet. To avoid adding too much water, pause to allow the stain to absorb the water. Then add more water until all the mason stain is wet.

Slip: Mix the stain into liquid clay (slip) for a smoother blend.
Here is more detailed information on A Quick and Easy Way to Make Slip.

Liquid: Mix the stain with a little water to create a paste before adding.

The Sandwich Roll: Fold the edges of the clay over the stain to trap it inside, then roll the whole thing into a log. This keeps the pigment going on the work surface as much as possible! I did find this process to be less messy.

After successfully rolling up the clay, I wait a few minutes before wedging the stain and clay together.

Wedge: Use a Spiral or Ram’s Head wedge. You will need to wedge significantly longer than usual..

Learning the spiral wedge technique may save you some time. There’s a link where you can find my article with a video demonstrating Three Different Ways to Wedge Clay.

Pro Tip: Use a wire cutter to slice the clay in half. If you see streaks, keep wedging until the cross-section is a solid, uniform color.

Keep wedging the clay until the color is evenly distributed throughout the clay.

Essential Tips for Success

Record Keeping: Write down your exact ratios. A color that looks beautiful today will be hard to recreate next month if you didn’t weigh the ingredients.

Moisture Control: Keep a spray bottle nearby to mist the clay as you wedge to maintain plasticity.

The “Pop” Factor: To make your custom colors truly vibrant, finish your pieces with a clear glossy glaze. This saturates the pigment and brings out the depth of the color.

Remember that the color of the clay will fire darker in the kiln, the higher you fire the clay, so you can expect deeper shades in your finished pottery.

Frequently Asked Questions About Colored Clay

Can I use food coloring or acrylic paint to color my pottery clay? While it’s tempting to use what you have at home, food coloring and acrylic paints will not work for kiln-fired pottery. The organic pigments in these items burn away at high temperatures, leaving your clay looking plain or gray. For permanent, vibrant color that survives the kiln, you must use mineral-based Mason stains or metal oxides.

Can you color air-dry clay using this method? Yes! You can definitely use Mason stains to color air-dry clay. However, because air-dry clay isn’t fired, you have more options—you can also use acrylic paints, inks, or even chalk pastels to tint it. Just remember that adding too much liquid or powder can change the consistency and drying time of the clay.

Does adding stain change the firing temperature of the clay? Generally, no. As long as you stay within the recommended ratio of 1 ounce of stain per pound of clay, your clay will still fire to its original “cone” (temperature) rating. If you add an excessive amount of certain oxides (like cobalt or manganese), it can occasionally act as a “flux” and cause the clay to soften earlier, so always fire a test tile first!

Can I mix two different colors of clay together? Absolutely! This is how the beautiful “Agateware” marbling effect is achieved. Just make sure both colors are made from the same clay body (both are Amaco #38). If you mix a stoneware colored clay with a porcelain colored clay, they may shrink at different rates, causing your piece to crack as it dries or fires.

Is it safe to eat off of pottery made with colored clay? Yes, once the piece has been fired and coated in a food-safe clear glaze. While Mason stains contain metals, they are encapsulated in the clay and sealed under the glaze, making the finished surface safe for functional use like mugs or bowls.

You can also check out this step-by-step YouTube Video below on making colored clay.

Summary

In conclusion, making colored clay is a simple and fun way to add some personality to your pottery projects. With just a few steps, you can create unique and vibrant colors that are sure to impress. By measuring out your clay and colorant, you can ensure a consistent and even mixture that can be duplicated.

It’s important to wear a Dust Mask Respirator when working with mason stains in powder form, as they can be harmful if inhaled. Taking the necessary precautions will ensure a safe and enjoyable experience.

With your colored clay ready, the possibilities for creativity are endless. Whether you’re creating a set of mugs or a decorative vase, the unique color variations will add a special touch to your finished piece. So go ahead and experiment with different colors and designs, and have fun with the process!