21 Essential Pottery Clay Tips for Every Potter

Have you ever put a lot of time and energy into creating a unique piece of pottery only to have it crack or warp on you?

Making pottery is much like baking; there are certain steps that can’t be skipped in order for it to turn out right. If you don’t sift the flour, you can end up with lumps. If you don’t knead the dough properly, your bread won’t rise. The recipe doesn’t say to sift the flour and knead the dough, only if you feel like it.

There are certain steps and care for your clay that shouldn’t be skipped to ensure your clay creations turn out. Here are the 21 essential pottery clay tips to help you create stunning pottery in a safe working environment.

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1. Know Your Clay’s Firing Temperature

It’s important to know that not all pottery clays fire to the same temperature.
Clay bodies are formulated to fire to 1828°F (998 °C) or all the way to 2345°F (1285°C), which is also referred to as Cone 06 to Cone 10. Clays are identified by the cone size. With Cone 06 to Cone 04 being the low-fire clays, Cone 5 to 6 being the mid-fire clays, and Cone 10 clays being the high-fire clays.

Now you can low-fire and mid-fire the high-fire clays. They will be more porous and a little weaker. Just make sure the mid or high-fire clays will be compatible with the low-fire glazes.

The main thing to be aware of is overfiring a low-fire or even a mid-fire clay. If this happens, your Clay will Melt because of the melting agents in these clays. You can see how nice the mid-fire glaze is in the photo below; the low-fire clay not so much.

For the best results, on glaze and clay compatibility, the glazes should match your clay’s firing range. Because the clay and glaze have to expand and contract together during the firing. If they don’t, marry well in the kiln, the glaze will craze or even crack in the kiln.

When buying your clay, always check your clay bag or product label for the recommended cone range and use Pyrometric cones, also known as Witness Cones, in your kiln to ensure accuracy.

If you don’t know your clay’s firing range and you want to fire past cone 04, it is best to test a small amount of clay on a cookie and see if the clay starts to melt.

2. Wedge Your Clay Thoroughly  

Whether you’re throwing on the wheel or hand-building, always properly wedge your clay. Wedging removes air bubbles and aligns the clay particles, which helps prevent cracks or even blowouts in the kiln. Wedging also gives a uniform moisture content and improves the plasticity, which makes the clay easier to shape and reduces the risk of warping.

Don’t skip wedging even if it’s a pre-wedged bag of clay. You don’t know how long the clay has been in the bag, and the outer edges of the clay may start to dry out. A few minutes of wedging is better than the frustration of fixing cracks later.

Well-wedged clay also dries more evenly. There are several ways of  Wedging clay. The three most popular are the Spiral Wedging, Ram’s Head Wedging, and the Stack & Slam.

👉 If you’re not sure which one to use, check out the post with a video on my Pottery Crafters website How To Wedge Clay A Beginner’s Guide.

3. Compressing your clay

Many cracks can be avoided when you compress the clay. Whether you are throwing or hand building, compressing your clay plays a very important role in crafting your pottery and should never be overlooked. Compressing helps align the clay particles, allowing the clay to dry more evenly and reducing the chance of warping when fired in the kiln. 

You may get away with it, but I haven’t. If the clay particles are not properly aligned, they can push against each other, causing the pottery to crack.

When hand-building, compress both sides of the slab with a rib to align the clay particles. And compress the joints and seams by smoothing with your finger or a tool. This joint smoothing tool works well for me.

When throwing on the wheel, you are automatically compressing the sides when you pull up the walls. Therefore, you must compress the bottom and rim of the pot every time.

Use a sponge or your fingers to compress the bottom. Apply firm and even pressure across the base to compress the clay and eliminate the stress that can cause cracking.

You can use your fingers or a shammy to compress the rim. You can also use the Rim Rib. This Rib is quick and easy to use.

Taking the time to compress your clay will help eliminate warping and cracks in your clay, either during drying or firing.

4. Use a Wire Cutter for Slicing Clay

Have you ever seen a potter dig in clay with their bare hands? I have. I have also done it myself, and I didn’t fare very well. I found it harder to dig into the clay with my hands. Plus, the likelihood of getting an air pocket in the clay just went way up.

A wire cutter is essential for slicing through the clay cleanly to inspect the inside of your clay or to cut off a piece for making pottery. I get a nice, clean cut every time. It’s also used for removing pots off the wheel or bat after throwing.

It’s always good to have a few Wire Cutters around the studio for convenience. Plus, just in case one breaks, you will have a backup.  

5. Choose the Right Clay for Your Project 

 When choosing pottery clay for your projects, you should consider whether that clay is suited for wheel throwing or hand-building. Some clays are smoother and easier to shape, while others offer more texture or strength.

Clay with grog or sand will tend to be better for hand-building.  

While smoother clay bodies are better for throwing on the wheel because they are easier on the hands. Except if you want to throw larger pots, then fine grog would be recommended to help prevent slumping or even collapsing the clay.

👉 For a full breakdown of clays and how to pick the right one for your needs, check out my post on Choosing the Right Clay.  

6. Label Your Clay

If you use different clay bodies for different projects, you may think you will remember which clay body is which, but You Don’t. You end up staring at the clay and thinking: What clay body was this again???  Unless you use the same clay body all the time, you need to label your clay.

Keeping track of which clay is which is most important if you use clays with different firing temperatures. Labeling takes the guesswork out and makes the crafting process much easier, to just look at the label and grab the clay you want to use.  

7. Don’t Mix Clay Bodies Without Testing

When I started making pottery years ago, I was told not to mix clay bodies. Now I was told that because I was new to crafting clay, mixing the clays would turn them into a different clay body.

The new clay body may have a different shrinkage rate, and firing results may be different when used with glazes. Mixing clay bodies is done by more advanced potters who know more about the effects of mixing the clays together.

With that said, if you want to mix clay bodies together, it is best to mix a small amount first and test out with the glaze you want to use e and see the results before committing to a large project. For more detailed information, here is the  Post on Mixing Clay Bodies Together.  

8. Know the 7 Stages of Clay

Knowing what you can do at each stage of clay is important. You need to know what you can do at each stage.

The Dry Clay Stage is also easy to store and modify by adding things like grog, fine sand, and colorants before you rehydrate it.

The Slip Stage is the glue that holds the clay together. It’s also used for decorating and slip casting in molds.

The Plastic Stage is  when you are able to mold the clay to create something on the wheel or hand build.

The Leather Hard Stage is when the clay has hardened so you can trim, carve, and add handles. There are actually 3 stages of leather-hard clay, which I highlighted in my 7 Stages of Clay Post.

The Bone Dry Stage is when the moisture is out of the clay, and it’s dry enough to bisque fire.

The Bisque Stage is when the clay is fired in the kiln, causing the clay to change permanently, making it harder but porous enough to absorb the glazes nicely.

The Glaze Firing Stage is where the magic happens. The glazes you have applied melt to the pottery and vitrify, creating beautiful colors and patterns.

 The Secret 8th And Final Stage of Clay Is Enjoying Your Creation. It’s wonderful to drink from, eat out of, or just admire.

👉 To get more detailed information on each stage of clay, you can refer to this post with a video, The 7 Stages of Clay

9. Use Bats and Ware Boards

Bats and Ware Boards are used to move clay to different areas of the studio.

When throwing on the pottery wheel, Bats come in very handy. You can use them to remove soft pots from the wheel without misshaping or damaging your piece.

Take your freshly thrown pot off the wheel, grab another piece of clay, and start throwing again. When the pots are firm enough, take them off the bat with a wire cutter. This makes the process go faster with fewer chances of a mishap.

The same with Ware Boards, they are great for working on a project with. You have the ability to move one piece aside and work on another piece. Ware boards are very convenient for moving your greenware clay around the studio without handling the clay too much when it’s in a fragile state.

Same goes for your bisque ware. You don’t want to be handling the bisque pieces too much because you can get oil on them from your fingers, which can cause crawling, leaving bare spots on your pottery.

10. Score and Slip for Stronger Bonds

When joining clay pieces, either from attaching handles from wheel throwing or hand building, it is best to always score both surfaces and use slip to create an extra-strong bond.

Now I know some potters just don’t do it, I’m not one of them. I have worked so hard to create the piece, I will never take the chance of having the seams or attachments on my pottery crack on me.

Because I always make sure to take the time to score and slip, cracking around the seams or around the attachments very rarely happens to me.
👉 For more information about clay slip, I have a post here on 21 Pottery Clay Slip Questions Answered

11. Have the right work surface for your Clay

The best surface for clay needs to have some grip to prevent the clay from sliding off or from the clay sticking to the surface. The surface also needs to be somewhat absorbent, but not too much, otherwise it will dry out your clay too fast.

Unpolished natural stones such as marble, granite, slate, and quartz provide a non-skid and absorbent surface. They are durable and easy to clean, though some stones, like granite, may stain. Make sure the stone is unpolished to maintain the necessary grip.

Concrete is durable and provides a stable, non-stick surface. They don’t absorb excessive moisture, preserving the clay’s workability.

Untreated wood is a good surface to work on, like birch, maple, oak, or even a high-grade sheet of plywood. Wood is my favorite to work on. It’s easy to clean and can be sanded if it becomes rough.

I attach my sheet of wood to my work table with C-Clamps, also known as G-Clamps. When my wood needs replacing, I simply replace it with another one-quarter or half-inch-thick piece of wood.   

👉 Here is a detailed list of 7 Surfaces You Can Choose From for Crafting Your Clay.

12. Keep Clay Moist

Make sure your clay has the proper amount of moisture when working with it and maintains that moisture if you have to take a break.

 When you are hand-building, you don’t want your clay to be so soft that it will not stay up on its own. You don’t want your clay to be too dry, so that when you bend it, the clay will crack.

The same with throwing on the wheel. If the clay isn’t moist enough, it will be very hard to center and throw. If it’s too soft, your clay will collapse when you’re forming the bowl or cylinder. When your clay is too soft, you can wedge the extra moisture out or let the clay sit out for a bit before working on it.

To prevent drying out your clay, make sure you cover the clay with plastic that you are not working on at the time to preserve the moisture content.

When it’s too hard to work with, reintroduce water and wedge the clay out.

When working on a piece of clay and you must stop for the day, it’s ok. There are several ways to keep your clay moist until you can continue to work on it. A damp box works great and protects your project from you or anyone else bumping into it.

Wrapping your clay up in a light, damp cloth, then covering with plastic, works really well also.

13. What to do with your clay water

You should never pour clay water directly down the drain. As you know, clay is very sticky, and over time, it will clog the pipes. You can use these methods instead to settle and separate clay particles from water.

You can use a Sink Trap to capture the clay. This method is used in many studios and works well.   

Pour the clay water back into the earth if you have a proper area to do that in.

Once the clay has settled, the water can be poured off, and the remaining clay sludge can be turned into slip.

Dried out the clay and recycle it, or if it is dirty clay water from the floor, you can dry it out and dispose of it.

👉 For the  step-by-step methods I use, you can check out my Post on How to Dispose of Pottery Clay Water  

14. Recycle Your Clay Scraps

Recycling your clay scraps is a smart move. Clay isn’t cheap, especially if you go through a lot of it. Recycling your scraps lets you reuse material instead of constantly buying new clay. Plus, why waste!

Through the process of crafting clay, a lot of clay can be trimmed or left unused. Instead of tossing it, recycling keeps it out of the landfill and puts it back in your hands.

The best way to recycle your clay is to dry it out first. This way it doesn’t sit in a bucket too long, growing mold. Plus, water doesn’t penetrate into damp or wet clay as well. By allowing the clay to dry thoroughly first, the water will absorb more evenly and faster throughout the clay.

I recycle my clay using the pillowcase method. It’s an easy, less messy way to recycle your clay.
👉 Here is a post that shows you several ways To Reclaim Your Pottery Clay, including my pillowcase method.

15. Storing Moist Clay

To preserve the moisture in your clay and help prevent mold from growing, your leftover clay should be sealed in buckets or heavy plastic bags. The best way to store your clay in the moist or Plastic Stage of Clay is by sealing it tightly in a thick plastic bag and placing it in a plastic storage container.

Open your clay bag and spray a little water over your clay body.

If your unused bag of clay starts to dry out while storing, there are a few ways you can keep it moist. Place a wet cloth on the top of the clay inside the plastic bag.

You can poke some holes in your clay with a round stick. A one-third inch or one centimeter is a good width. For 25 pounds of clay, 6 or 7 holes are good. Pour water into the clay holes.

Remove any air as you seal your clay back in the plastic bag.

👉 For an in-depth look at ways to store and keep your clay moist, go to How to Store Pottery Clay.

16. Test Clay Bodies Before Buying Bulk

Before committing to a large purchase, it’s smart to try out small amounts of different clay bodies so you don’t waste money on a clay you don’t want. If you’re hand-building or wheel-throwing, you need to know how each clay feels and responds to your techniques. It also helps to know the compatibility of each clay body with your glazes and the clay bodies firing ranges.

Buy a smaller bag of clay first if it is available. Some studios will sell or even give out small samples of clay. I have a friend who gives me samples of clay from time to time. Friends in the clay community are wonderful like that.

Once you find the clay or clays that work best for you and your glazes, then you can buy bulk.  

17. Keep The Clay Dust Down In Your Work Area 

Even though clay is non-toxic and safe to play with when wet, you still need to be aware that dry clay particles are not good for your lungs, and over time, may cause health problems. Knowing you can’t eliminate clay dust completely, minimizing the amount of dust is the best way to play with clay. Wipe down your work surface to keep the dust from floating around. Do not sweep. This will kick up clay dust.

Keep a spray bottle filled with water handy. I use a Mister Spray Bottle and lightly mist my work surfaces.

It’s best to sand your pieces outside. If outdoor sanding isn’t possible, wear a protective mask and use a wet sponge or wet sanding paper to smooth areas instead of dry sanding.

👉 For more detailed information, you can refer to the full post on Pottery Clay Dust and How to Minimize it

18. Avoid Sharp Edges and Maintain Even Thickness

Clay and sharp edges don’t get along. If the edge is sharp enough, after you fire the clay in the kiln, it can cut you. And you don’t want that, especially on the lip of your mug. Make sure all your edges are smoothed over.

It’s best if your clay maintains the same thickness throughout your piece. Of course, you will have add-ons and attachments. When you do it, it’s best not to make them too much thicker than your piece. Especially if you are raku firing.  

19. Dry your clay slowly and evenly

Do not rush the Drying Process. Rushing the process can lead to cracks, especially in thicker or uneven areas. Clay particles are platelets that stack, align, and stick together.

It’s best to cover your wet pottery lightly with plastic and routine at least once a day. This allows for slow and consistent drying. After two to three days, depending on your climate, you can uncover and allow the clay to continue to dry.

Drying too quickly and unevenly puts tension on the tiny clay particles, which can cause them to push against each other and cause cracks.

20. Watch for Mold Growth in Clay

Wet clay that sits in the open for too long is a perfect breeding ground for mold to take over. Mold is naturally present in all clays. Some clays contain more mold than others. It’s usually harmless, but if you’re allergic or around too much mold. The mold can have adverse effects on your health over time.

The mold can be neutralized with several products. I was told you can use bleach, vinegar, or even Hydrogen Peroxide, so I put them to the test.

I have a video showing you three different ways to keep mold at bay and how they reduced the amount of mold and even eliminated most of it.
👉 To find out which one or ones work the best, Watch The Best Way To Remove Mold From Clay

21. Keep a Clay Journal

Keeping A Journal is a great way to keep track of your clay bodies. You will be able to know your clay’s drying and firing shrinkage rates. Which clays worked the best for you, and which clays to avoid in the future.

 Use the results from firings and mixing experiments to improve consistency and learning.

It’s good to keep track of the measurements of your projects, especially if you want to recreate the same pieces. Plus, you don’t have to ask yourself, ‘How did I do that?’

Conclusion

From wedging and compressing to labeling, storing, and recycling, these 21 clay tips are the foundation of a smoother, more successful pottery practice. The right clay habits help you create stronger, cleaner, and more consistent pieces.

Keep experimenting, stay curious, and don’t forget to track your progress in a clay journal. Your future self (and your pottery) will thank you!